What started out as a restaurant on the Wharf of St. Ives in 2003 has currently expanded to a converted shipping container serving fried chicken on Lemon Quay in Truro, a new restaurant opened in the old converted chapel at the start of Kenwyn street, also Truro, and another converted building in the centre of Exeter. It's taken little over ten years for them to reach this position, and long may they reign...
My first experience of the HUB was when they opened a shipping crate in front of Marks and Spencer's in Lemon Quay. Painted in an unassuming green, it sat there at the edge of town issuing the smells of grilling meat, the smell of temptation on the wind... Unless you don't like the smell of grilling meat wafting across the metropolis (I gather there are several people of this opinion. Who knew?). Serving a range of gourmet burgers, bottled craft ales and lagers at prices not too steep accounting for quality, I was a regular offender (as I continue to be) at the take out window cut into the side, filling up loyalty cards one after another: 10 stamps equal a free burger - the prices haven't changed so I'll let you do the math on that one. Petitions went back and forth to either remove or maintain it at that position, with the latter seemingly holding out. In the summer of 2014, they finally closed the container and moved in to the chapel on Kenwyn street, the former site of the One Eyed Cat, which has disappeared into memory... In 2013, the box in Exeter opened its doors, which I have yet to visit on my semi-irregular visits, and on the 5th of November, the doors opened on the Chick Inbox in the Lemon Quay shipping container, which is the first of a new outdoor food court that will reclaim the paddle steamer that currently sits empty (well, sits with restoration work taking place actually).
Since their move to Kenwyn street, I've once again become a regular customer, (usually on gentlemen's luncheon with Cardinal Sin) already having eaten most of my way through that menu, and also working my way through the options at the Chick Inbox bit by bit. No wonder I don't have any money...
Let's face it: HUB make great burgers. Like, really good. Hilariously, they're sat over the road from Truro's Burger King (the great signpost), but the gulf between them is far greater than mere Kenwyn street, and I don't really think their proximity has had any real effect on their respective customer bases. The menu starts with the classic plain beef, and quickly escalates to the Big Kahuna, which is a tasty burger, even if doesn't have any pineapple rings (they serve it with onion rings though, I guess they break even on that one). There's the mackerel Mack Daddy, and a couple of vegetarian options available as well, including the 'NYC Super Salad', the Plate of Rad, which comes with felafel balls. Although a kitchen, toilets and bar is cut into the inside of the building, things like the interior stonework, clerestory windows and the stained glass in the north-west wall have been thankfully preserved, befitting its status as a Grade II listed building. Funnily enough, there was a shipping crate that opened up, gull swing style into a bar sat next to the building in its previous guise... But that didn't last at all. That said, the entrances to the kitchen, DJ booth and downstairs toilet are painted as an ersatz container, continuing their former aesthetic.
Seating is spread over two floors, and the building's high ceiling continues to be a credit, allowing the place to seem much lighter; the clear window (almost in rose form) above the entrance lets in a lot of light during the day, and suspended strips and low power bulbs in booths help shape the rough charm of the establishment. The staff range from very to extremely polite, and the attitude is "we're cool if you're cool" - kind of casual but helpful when you attract their attention. A range of interesting hairstyles, tattoos and piercings abound, including the manager's enormous and fulsome beard. Soul, funk and hip hop are the usual day time sounds piped over the speakers, all contributing to this rough charm idea - after all, if the menu is inspired by the Williamsburg neighbourhood of New York, why shouldn't the surroundings be as well? They can often be quite busy, which is of course, THE PRICE OF SUCCESS. The waiting time for food is what it is: I find it to be no better or worse than any where else really. It's always worth asking for the current wait on, and deciding for yourself if you're prepared; don't blame them if you accept a sit down on a 40 minute queue.
While the prices are a step above a Whopper meal, they are worth it. True, the fries are extra, and it can often be a challenge not breaking over a tenner, something in the region of £15 will get you any burger, fries and a bottle of craft beer, imported or not. They serve from the tap as well, in third and half measures, and offer a flight of beers for tasting too. There's the usual range of soft drinks available, along with sweet maltshakes (dreadfully tempting but not worth the possibility of lactose pain), which I am assured are fantastic. They also offer a smoked brisket sandwich and a roll full of the ubiquitous and world-conquering pulled pork... Pulled pork? How has that taken over the world? The Hot Dogs are slightly more affordable than the burger range, and are just as excellent and filling; my favourite is the 'Double Double', which comes with pulled pork and sauerkraut. When it first opened, they also offered wings and a rack of smoked pork ribs - these are currently retired, though hopefully not permanently. Currently sat on top of the 'BBQ' section and pride of the menu is the smoked brisket: A tray that comes with a hefty piece of beef, covered in BBQ sauce, on a bed of fries, with pickles and slaw on the side; truly the best bang for buck ratio in the whole place but a big meal for one.
Chick Inbox, on the other hand, is an altogether more direct, "Ronseal" approach to fast food - they serve chicken, in a box. Let's not mince words here, I think it's absolutely amazing. This is what KFC wants to be when it grows up, what it dreams of while filling in a UCAS application. The prices almost seem too good to be true, walking away with 4 pieces of fried chicken covered in sauce with fries, slaw and a pickle for a princely £10. They recently introduced boneless strips, and serve wings and a range of burgers too. The three sauces, lemon and herb, Korean barbeque, and (five nights at) Freddy's hot sauce come with the pieces or strips at your choice, or are included in the burgers themselves. Geographically, it sits in the old HUBBOX site, but with the interior redecorated and doors painted in a screaming yellow to attract the good folk of Truro. There are no inside seats, but benches outside underneath an open canopy, but there are plans to sure up the seating. It is the first in a food court, which will soon be joined by a Pizza stop, a new stop for 108 Coffee, and, if reports are to be believed, a pub on the boat!
It's far easier to avoid the demon cheese at Chick Inbox than HUB. Sadly, it's taken four returned orders for them to get into the swing that I need the cheese leaving out of burger orders at the Kenwyn street venue - the buns are brioche, which contain more than enough milk in the first place. I hate sending food back full stop, it's no fun for anyone, either side of the pass. However, I'm pleased to say that there have been no problems since the start of the month. The only other real problem I've had is drink service once they close the kitchen. Sometimes it's been tricky to have been served, as they become a cocktail bar in the evening when they close the kitchen at 9pm. I'd say that this is less a kind of instant choice venue, more a planned night. Cocktails, as delicious as they may be, aren't cheap. There are 2-4-1 offers on Friday and Saturday nights, and if you can't see a familiar beverage on the menu then feel free to ask: The staff are as knowledgeable as they are approachable.
So? Go. You might as well try it. There are lots of options for grilled, American-style food around and this is definitely one of the best. The Truro restaurant accepts bookings for parties 10 and above, and remember that lunchtime and early evening are bound to be the busiest servings. Check out the respective websites, with pictures, maps and menus for more!
HUBBOX Truro Chick Inbox HUB St. Ives
All information correct at time of publishing.
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